On The Highest Railway in The World (Chengdu to Lhasa Train) - Bucketlist Checked

Read the previous post here:

• Overland Trip From China to Nepal (Chengdu-Tibet-Kathmandu)
• Chengdu-Tibet-Nepal: Budgeting Recap, Documents, Tips & Trick
• Things To Do While on Transit - Chengdu, China

The Serene Ambience While Reading a Book 

Along The 36 Hours Train Ride 

The Ticket

Transit at Xining Railway Station (To change to special train which can

 operate on high altitude along Qinghai Tibet Plateu)

Along The Ride, Fruits and Food (Non Halal) are Available on The Train

There are Bedding on One Side and Window Coach on The Other Side

How Locals Spend Their Time: Reading, Watching Drama, and Enjoy Hot Drinks and Eat!

The Dramatic View Along The Journey

Coffee Given to Me by Neighbor

My Neighbor (Locals Traveling From Chengdu to Lhasa)

One of My Open Trip Member Have to Use Nasal Cannula to Heal 

The Symptom of Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS)

Lhasa Train Station

When I was reading about Lhasa, there I stumble upon the so called highest railway in the world. The train on this journey will travel from Xining, China to Tibet, China through Qinghai Tibet Plateu, reaching the highest altititude when passing Tanggula Pass on 5200 meters above sea level. There are another high railway in the world, some of them are journey from Lima to Huancayo and from Cuzco to Lake Titicaca but this route from Xining to Lhasa is on the top of the list. So, who wouldn't want to put this journey on their bucket list?

So, purposely, I chose an open trip which taking train instead of plane to reach Lhasa. And turns out it really was once in a lifetime experience. The journey was taking 36+ hours train ride. Departing at 21:37 p.m from Chengdu, I take the hard sleeper train to Xining (2283 meters above sea level). The seat available are couch, hard sleeper, and soft sleeper. 

The couch is clearly not recommended for this two nights journey, the soft sleeper is the most comfortable one because it only consists of 4 beds in one private room, whilst the hard sleeper gives the most local experience; consist of 6 beds in a compartment without door, so clearly it will be a little bit noisy but this is how we can have interaction with locals who take the train, experience the way they enjoy the journey, mostly by watching movie, reading, playing cards, eating and eating!

One night was spent in a usual sleeper train from Lhasa to Xining. At the next day at around 10 a.m. we change train in Xining Railway Station to a special train suitable for high altitude, a completely sealed train with oxygen system which deliver oxygen to each of the carriage, nasal cannula is also available for those who feel AMS sympotms such as headache, nausea, and heavy vomitting. This train has the same seating and bedding configuration with the first train and we also got the same seat number.

In the second night, at about 10 p.m., we started to ascend to a higher altitude. I chose to sleep early because I am afraid that I might get AMS for I have never traveled to altitude higher than 2500 meters above sea level before. And a little tips, it's been a common knowledge around mountain climbers that Acetazolamide (Usually known by its brand: Diamox) could help with AMS symptopms. And after did a consultation with my doctor, she said that it might help with AMS symptomps, looking from its drug's mechanism of action. It is okay to consume this drug as long as we have no contraindication condition to this drug (such as hypersensitivity to Acetazolamide) and as long as it is not consumed in a long time (more than 7-10 days). So, I take Acetazolamide 125 mg, 2 times per day before ascending and take 250 mg, 2 times per day when I am in 4000+ altitude. And I have no AMS at all :)

Some of my group tour members get AMS symptomps such as vomiting and nausea when we are passing the Tanggula Pass on the train, therefore they have to use nasal cannula to get more oxygen. And this also happen with a lot of locals. So, AMS is real issue when traveling to high altitude guys! Make sure to consult with your doctor about the best way to prevent it, including taking Acetazolamide in the right dose. 

And finally at the second day, around 10 a.m. we arrived at Lhasa Station. It was really a once in a lifetime experience. Sleeping in a hard sleeper train for two days, passing the most dramatic landscape, from cities, to desert, until the snow capped mountain along the highest railway in the world, while seeing what locals do, talking with them, sipping hot coffee once or twice, reading my favorite book, until enjoying fresh fruit from the cart is really an unforgettable memories. I would not choose to take plane to reach Lhasa, for this experience is worth to be ticked from my bucket list, and from your bucket list too for sure, no?

Things to Do While on Transit - Chengdu, China

Read the previous post:

• Overland Trip From China To Nepal (Chengdu - Tibet - Kathmandu)
• Chengdu - Tibet - Nepal: Budgeting Recap, Documents, Tips & Trick

Chunxi Road, Chengdu, China

Before departing for Tibet, I first arrived at Chengdu to catch the train departing for Lhasa. I purposely came a little bit early so that I can enjoy Chengdu first for I long for visiting its Giant Panda Breeding. Fortunately, not only I can visited its Giant Panda Breeding, I can also walked along the buzzling street around my apartment. Here are some interesting places I visited during my one and a half day spent in Chengdu:

Chunxi Road

This road is located in Jinjiang District. From my apartment, Chengdu Memory Space Apartment Taiguli Branch, this road is only five minutes away by walk.  This street was initially built to connect two commercial centers. And now you can find almost everything here, from the famous bubble tea, traditional snacks, fruits, until department store such as Isetan. 

To spend one evening there after a tiring long flight is such a memorable first day in my travel journey. This place would be perfect to be visited whether in days or nights, for when the night come you could only stare at the city lights and already feel happy (at least, it was, for me) :)

Tianfu Square, Chengdu, China

Tianfu Square

About 15 minutes slow walk (and a little stop here and there to take some picture) from Chunxi Road,  I found Tianfu Square. This place is located in The Commercial and Business District and a stop for 2 lines of the metro so this place is quite crowded. But I still can enjoy the super clean open space and stop for a moment to enjoy the hustle and bustle of the city. The famous Mao Zedong Statue is located in front of this square so I must say this is a must visit place for your first visit to Chengdu.

Walking passed by The Mao Zedong Statue, Chengdu, China

Me wearing: Top (Unbranded), Wool Jacket (Marks & Spencer), 

Pants (Unbranded), Bag (Fossil), Shoes (Payless)

Mao Zedong Statue

This famous statue is located in front of Tianfu Square. Actually, nothing to do here other than taking picture with the statue, but for a Chengdu first timer I guess it is nice to see this memory of the founding father of China, no? 

Eating halal noodle at one store in moslem area near Chengdu Museum

Moslem Area Near Chengdu Museum

After get enough with the walk and the night started to crawl in, we were looking for some food and we found that there is a moslem are not far from the square. So we walked there, passed The Chengdu Museum and finally about 8  minutes from Tianfu Square we saw this halal noodle store in the second floor of a bakery (the bread is delicious too) and there we went (So sorry I can't read the store's name, but it is easy to be found in the moslem area). 

I ate a beef noodle and I like it. Just like the usual Chinese dishes this noodle is rich with spicy and oily flavor and some of my friends did't find it suit their taste. But honestly, I like it :)

JinLi Ancient Street

JinLi Ancient Street

One of our tour group member wanted to find a starbucks located in an old traditional building, then there we were, finding it inside JinLi Ancient Street. We first thought that this place is not far from Tianfu Square, but actually it takes us about 20-30 minutes by walk from Tianfu Square because we were taking the long way round, getting lost for we were not reading the map carefully. And we totally walked about 10 kms from our apartment to reach this street.

I didn't find any of the starbucks store's photo in my camera (my bad), but you can see it here. A quiet interesting way to end the day by sipping hot cafe mocha inside the ambience of an old traditional building, I must say. But more than that, I enjoyed my walk along this street, buying traditional snack (grilled fish), eating it while watching traditional dance performance and moreover in a breezy spring day.

At Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding

One Panda was Busy Eating

Red Panda 

Every panda in The Breeding Center have their own personal detail and characteristic described!

 你好 Er Qiao! 

Can't help but wanted to buy all of the souvenirs in The Souvenir Center

Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding

And finally! Can't believe that I have the time to visit this place I've been longing for so long. It took 30 minutes by taxi to go to this breeding center from our apartment. A really vast and beautiful conservatory to wander around. And for erderly or for some people who only want to enjoy the ambience while sipping on hot drinks, there are few beautiful cafes available which overlooking a serene lake. 

I chose to explore this place on foot but of course for some people it might be tiring, but believe me it was worth it. You could also take the train available, but the queue is quite long. There I could see panda and their (always) funny behavior. There is also red panda, anyway have you ever seen it before? Yes, they are exist!

And my favorite is Panda's cub. The little and active baby is located far in the nursery area. Not much people reach this place, but a little tip for you, really you should visit this nursery area!

Explore Time: 3-4 hours

Entrance Fee: 9 USD

Chengdu-Tibet-Nepal: Budgeting Recap, Documents, Tips & Trick

Read the previous post 
Overland Trip from China to Nepal (Chengdu - Tibet - Kathmandu)

Yamdrok Lake, Tibet, China

Speaking about my Chengdu-Tibet-Nepal trip, some of you requested the details on the budgeting. So, here it is and some tips on reducing the budget.

Chinese Visa

Tibet Permit

1. First thing first, to travel to Tibet we must join one tour operator available from Tibet, we can not do solo travel. So, to join an open trip available is the easy choice. I was joining an open trip from Stalkingnina, how much did it cost? What was included? 

It costs USD 1150. Including:

• 3 stars accomodation.
• Meals (breakfast and one dinner time each in Tibet and Nepal, bottled water everyday).
• Bus for accomodation while on tour including 4 WD car which take us from China border to Kathmandu (the actual price is about USD 32).
• All permit needed in Tibet (Tibet travel permit and alien's travel permit were included).

2.What kind of documents are needed for a trip to downtown Tibet and Everest Base Camp (EBC)?

• Chinese Visa: IDR 650.000 (USD 42). Our group asked for help from a tour operator to take care of our visas, it was simpler that way. You could choose any tour operator you trust. 
• Tibet Travel Permit by Tibet Tourism Bureau. It was included in the open trip payment. 
• Alien's Travel Permit (could be taken care of once we arrived there, mine was taken care of in Shigatse). Also included in the open trip payment. 
• Frontier pass needed to travel to border areas, such as Tibet-Nepal border and Mount Everest area. Also included in the open trip payment. 

3. How to approach Lhasa, Tibet?

First thing first, there are several options to approach Tibet. By domestic flight to Lhasa Airport from several Chinese hub cities like Chengdu, Beijing, or Shanghai. So you have to fly to these cities first.  Or by international flight from Kathmandu, Nepal (cost around USD 400) which is the only availabe international flight to Lhasa. Or by train from Chengdu. 

Pros of Each Choices
Chengdu - Lhasa Flight: If you looking for a convenience and fast journey you could choose the   flight // Chengdu - Lhasa Train: If you looking for a once in a lifetime journey with breathtaking view which is operated on the highest railway in the world, then train is the perfect choice.  Moreover, the slow ascent give our bodies time to adjust to the altitude hence the chance of getting accute mountain sickness (AMS) is lower.  
Cons of Each Choices

Chengdu - Lhasa Flight: But it means an immediate ascent which can cause accute mountain sickness (AMS). // Chengdu - Lhasa Train: Even in the soft sleeper compartment you might find it uncomfortable for a 36+ hours journey, not to mention the public toilets which will get dirty and stink overtime. 

My choice
I fly budget airline AirAsia from Lombok to Chengdu (cost USD 204) then continue the journey with Chengdu-Lhasa train. The Chengdu-Lhasa flight and Chengdu - Lhasa train have a similar price, around USD 190. And I take the train (the hard sleeper one) for the sake of the experience. 
Ps. This choice is more budget friendly than flying Lombok-Nepal-Lhasa (which will cost me around USD 470) and I love to explore Chengdu first :)
As for the flight back to Indonesia, I fly Malindo air to Kuala Lumpur (cost USD 165) and continue with AirAsia to Lombok (cost USD 69)

4. What insurance did I use during the trip?

It was not easy finding insurance which covers trip to a a high altitude (more than 3000 m), moreover it was a trip to Everest Base Camp, where the health and safety risk were no kidding. But luckily,  after searching here and there, I found Zurich Passport Worlwide (cost USD 58) and it covers everything. So, next time you need travel insurance, I guess Zurich could be a choice. 

5. What are other expenses along the trip?

• Nepal Visa. In this trip we went back to Indonesia via Nepal rather than going back to Chengdu. So, a Nepal Visa is needed. A visa on arrival cost USD 25.
• Hotel while in Kuala Lumpur, Chengdu and Nepal will be shown at detail below.
• Transportation while in Kuala Lumpur, Chengdu, Nepal will be shown at detail below.
• KLIA Express while in Kuala Lumpur will be shown at detail below.
• Entry tickets will be shown at detail below.
• Souvenirs budget will be shown at detail below. 
• Culinary delights budget will be shown at detail below. 

I really do hope this post will give you some insight on the important matters on traveling to Tibet. As always if you have any questions feel free to comment below or email me :)

Overland Trip From China To Nepal (Chengdu - Tibet - Kathmandu)

Swayambunath Temple

Kathmandu, Nepal

Overlooking The Summit of Mount Everest

Tibet, China

Potala Palace

Tibet, China

Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda

Chengdu, China

When I was sitting at my geography class in my elementary days, I remember my teacher told me that the highest mountain in the world is Mount Everest, located at The Himalayan Range which spread across India, Nepal, China, Pakistan, and Bhutan. I wonder how does the highest mountain in the world look like? Does the snow always cover its peak? 

The other day, when I read a book about countries of the world on the book at a city library back home, I read about Lhasa. It was the capital of the highest country in the world, known as roof of the world, Tibet. And now Tibet is a part of China, but it still is the roof of the world, and I was still  wondering how does it feel like to stand at the roof of the world? "Would I be able, someday?" is what I always thought. 

At the beginning of 2017 my dear friend asked me if I would like to go to Tibet with her, for there is an open trip (Open trip price for Overland Tibet-Nepal: USD 1150) with Mba Nina, visit her website Stalking Nina for information about the upcoming open trip. At that time I was still doing my clinical study, by the time the trip will begin, April 2018, I still don't know where I will be. Will I still doing my clinical study and wouldn't be able to attend the trip due to some exit exams? Will I be working at a clinic and would not be able to get any days off? Those were questions I have in my mind. 

But, if not now, when? 

So, might as well, say yes when there is this opportunity coming and let the universe sort the other things out, naturally.

Turns out my dear friend couldn't continue this trip due to personal event, so I ended up continuing this trip alone. But, nothing to worry about because there are 13 other people joining this open trip and turns out they are all an experienced traveler and a great travel mates! 

So, last April  I went on a 16 days overland trip from China to Nepal, live witnessing Lhasa which I used to only read on a book at the library, truly a dream comes true :') Here is my itinerary and later on I will share my day to day experience in a separate long and serial post haha, meanwhile, here is the highlight so you will first able to imagine the complete picture:

• Day 1: Departing from Lombok, Indonesia en route Chengdu, China with an overnight layover at Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I fly Air Asia which cost idr 3.100.000 (USD 219) for economy seat and 25 kg baggage. For the overnight layover I stayed at Capsule by Container Hotel, KLIA 2. I booked a female only, 12 hours room via Agoda for idr 411.000 (USD 30). 
• Day 2: Arriving at Chengdu and finally met with the other traveler. We stayed at a two bedroom Chengdu Memory Space Apartment Taiguli Branch for one night which cost idr  348.000 (CNY 155) per person. I arrived at 2 pm and after quick rest at the apartment, we wandered around downtown Chengdu, walked and walked passed the crowded Chunxi Road, take a photo in Tianfu Square, having noodle at a halal restaurant in one moslem area, and ended up at JinLi ancient street. 
• Day 3: Our train from Chengdu to Lhasa depart at 9 pm, so that in the morning we got some time to visit Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda, an ex situ conservation base, scientific research and breeding base, and public education and tourism base 30 minutes from our apartment. At night, after a quick rest at our apartment we depart to Lhasa for a 36 hours train ride from Chengdu Railway Station. I take the hard sleeper one which cost idr 2.680.000 (usd 190), we spent the night at the train. 
• Day 4: One full day enjoying the journey to Lhasa, overlooking the beautiful landscape along the route which known as the highest railway in the world with the highest pass is Tanggula Pass (5.072 meters above sea level). Spending another night at the train. 
• Day 5: At about 10 am we arrived at Lhasa Train Station and went straight to our hotel Kyichu Hotel Lhasa, just a 10 minutes walk from Potala Palace. For the rest of the day, I only spent my time resting and having lunch and dinner at the hotel and walk a five minutes walk to the nearest department store, Baiyi, to buy some water and food. Because it was the time for the body to rest and acclimitize to the high altitude (Lhasa altitude: 3.656 meters above sea level) to prevent accute mountain sickness. 
• Day 6: The second day at Lhasa, we visited Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple by walk, because it is only 10-minutes walk from our hotel. At night, me and some people from the group walked around Jokhang temple while observing the pilgrims do Kora. 
• Day 7: The next day is still the time to explore monasteries in Tibet. Early in the morning we went to Drepung Monastery, one of the big three monasteries in Tibet. That morning, it was snowy in Drepung and it was so beautiful. Then after lunch off we went to Sera Monastery to enjoy The Debating Monks in a debating courtyard. At night, me and some friends walking to Potala Palace to enjoy the beauty of its lighting lit up the night. 
• Day 8: Then come the time for a road trip to approach Everest Base Camp (Altitude: 5.200 meters above sea level). Along the road we passed Kamba La Pass (4.794 meters above sea level) and finally visited Yamdrok Lake, a beautiful lake with its blue water located at 4.441 meters above sea level. Then a few minutes from Yamdrok Lake we met Karo La Glacier (5.560 meters above sea level), not a big glacier but it already is beautiful. After that, straight we went to our hotel at Shigatse (Altitude: 3.800 meters above sea level), Manasrovar Hotel Shigatse. 
• Day 9: In the morning, before driving to New Tingri, a small county town where we stay before heading to Everest Base Camp the next day, we stopped by at Tashi Lunpo Monastery, a traditional seat for Panchen Lamas. I personally love this monastery the most over the other. Tell you why in the next post! ;) This night, we stayed at New Tingri rather than like the usual Everest Base Camp trip where people stayed at Rongbuk Guesthouse.
• Day 10: Early in the morning, before the sun showed itself we drove to approach Everest Base Camp (EBC) North Side (Altitude: 5.200 meters above sea level). To be able to visit everest base camp as a tourist we need a permit, other than Tibet Visitor Permit itself. And if one want to do summit expedition, they will need climber permit also. For I only go as far as Everest Base Camp as a tourist, I only need Tibet Visitor Permit and Tourist Permit. After we walked to  the monument built on the EBC and enjoyed the magnificent view, we continue our road trip to approach Gyirong, a small beautiful city with tropical vegetation yet has the magnificent view of snow capped mountain around. Gyirong is the border between China and Nepal.
• Day 11: Early in the morning, we drove to where The China Immigration is at Gyirong border. On the other side of a bridge is Rasuwa, a district at Nepal. I'm quite amazed by how different the condition is just after a few meters from the China side. The Nepal side is quite under developed. After done with the immigration and Nepal Visa on Arrival, we drove for 7 hours to Kathmandu and have a rest at our hotel at Thamel area, Truly Asia Boutique Hotel which cost idr 425.000 (30 USD per night). At night, I have a nice cup of coffee and vegan burger at French Bakery, Thamel. I recommend you to stop by at this cafe once you're in Kathmandu for the coffee and meals here is perfect! 
• Day 12: In the morning, we went to Swayambunath (Entrance fee: NPR 200/ idr 26.600) and I very much enjoy the time watching the pilgrims praying and turning the prayer wheel. After that, we have a tour with a guide who tell us all the history of Patan Durbar Square (Entrance fee cost: NPR 1000/ idr 133.000), one of Kathmandu's three medieval kingdoms. Then, we went to Boudhanath (Entrance fee: NPR 250/ idr 33.000) to enjoy the beautiful twilight as the background of the magnificent stupa inside the complex. At night, we were having dinner at a traditional nepali restaurant, Gokarna House Restaurant. I personally love Nepali Food, but some people might not find it suitable with their taste. 
• Day 13: This day I have a staycation at Nagarkot, a village where there are some hotels and resorts available. We will be able to see the himalayan range from the comfort of our hotel, if the sky is clear, which I unfortunately did not get the last time I stayed. Me and my 3 friends stayed at Mystic Mountain Hotel (Rate upon booking (via Agoda): idr 1.600.000), have a buffet dinner (Cost: NPR 2500/ idr 332,500) and breakfast and enjoying some spa session available (Deep massage tissue spa cost: around NPR 3.630/ idr 482.000). Before going to Nagarkot, we stopped by for a visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square, the center of administration of all the three durbars (Entrance fee: NPR 1000/ idr 133.000) and Pasupatinath (Entrance fee: NPR 1000/ idr 133.000), a temple complex at the banks of Bagmati River where the cremation ceremony of the hindus held. 
• Day 14: After having breakfast and a refreshing spa in the morning, just before lunch we went back to Kathmandu. And before went back to our hotel at Thamel area, we stopped by at Bhaktapur Durbar Square (Entrance fee: NPR 1000/ idr 133.000), the center of culture out of the three durbars. After satisfied walking around Bhaktapur, eating some Juju Dhau, the traditional yoghurt which taste heavenly and having lunch at Cafe Beyond (I really recommend this cafe!) located just before the entrance gate of Bhaktapur, we went back to Truly Asia Boutique Hotel, Thamel area. Because it was my last night before went back home, I went around Thamel that night, looking for some souvenirs, masala tea, shirt with words "Nepal" on it and of course yak wool pashmina. While wandering around I stopped by at Pilgrims Book House, truly a heaven for book lover! And ended the day by having dinner at Pho 99 (I love their Pho Bo!).
• Day 15: My flight back home scheduled at 1.00 pm so I got some time to spend in the morning, walking just around the hotel. I went to French Bakery again to enjoy some coffee and apple pie while reading a book I just bought the night before. Then I walked just a little bit farther to enjoy the breeze at Garden of Dreams, a surprisingly beautiful garden as a hideaway in the middle of the chaoss of Thamel. At 10 am I went to Tribhuvan International Airport, I booked a flight with Malindo Air departing for Kuala Lumpur (I fly economy (including 25 kg baggage) which cost idr 2.328.000 (usd 165)). That night I stay for one night at Apple Hotel, Bukit Bintang (Price upon booking via Agoda: idr 342.000 (usd 24)) for I craveee for a Tom Yum Noodle Soup at Jalan Alor heheh. 
• Day 16:  Spent the last day of my journey walking along Bukit Bintang, looking for some make up at Sephora and having breakfast at Fountain Cafe, Pavilion then went straight back to KLIA 2 using KLIA Express for my 4 pm flight with Air Asia (I fly economy and booked a 30 kg baggage which cost idr  1.059.000 (MYR 289)) back home to Lombok. 

So, that was a recap of 16 days journey which make my heart and mind feel complete. Some of my friend requesting the budgeting detail and breakdown which I will share in the next post. Stay tune and feel free to email me if you want to ask questions about journey to Tibet, anyway.